1. Temperature: In Kathmandu today the high was 17 degrees Celcius, and the low is going to be 2. Over the next few months the lows may go a little lower than that, but probably not by much. Don't let the numbers deceive you. It's COLD here! Sure, in Canada the outside temperatures get much colder, well into the negatives. So what's my problem? Nepalis are asking me that, too. The difference is that while in Canada it may be -20 degrees outside, inside it is 20 degrees. Here in Nepal, when it is 2 degrees outside, it is also 2 degrees inside. And in the afternoon when it is 17 degrees outside, it's still 2 degrees inside (or maybe 5). That brings me to point number 2.
2. In Canada you go inside to get warm. You bundle up when you're going outside, but inside you take off your jacket, hat, scarf, mittens, and maybe some of your layers. Here in Kathmandu, at least during the day (on days when the sun is shining), you go outside to get warm. Inside you're wearing multiple layers, a jacket (or possibly 2), hat, scarf, shawl, etc. Outside if you're in the sun you will likely take off (or at least unzip) a few of the outer layers. A few weeks ago I was in a t-shirt outside and about 3 long-sleeved layers inside. Now it's not so warm, even in the middle of the day, so I'm definitely not wearing a t-shirt. But it's still warmer than inside. It is not at all uncommon to see Nepalis on their roofs, or in their front yard - or wherever they can find a patch of sun - during the day. It's the warmest place there is. I'm told that in a few weeks it will start raining and then it won't be warm inside OR outside. During those weeks, everybody is just miserable.
3. Showers are overrated. Okay, so I haven't QUITE convinced myself of this yet, but this morning I was getting close. I do have warm water, because there is a gas heater (known as a geezer) that heats up the water when you turn it on, and you get a nice hot shower. But as soon as you turn off the water...BRRR!!! I think I'm going to at least change my showering time to the afternoon when I get home from my language class. Washing in the afternoon is actually a very Nepali thing to do in the winter anyways. Mornings and evenings are just too darn cold for a shower!
4. Hot water bottles and shawls are underrated. The hot water bottle is an amazing invention. I have a couple with me. I boil some water on the stove, pour it into the hot water bottle, wrap it in a towel, and put it in my bed under the blankets while I'm getting ready for bed. It makes the bed much warmer. And then I put it at the foot of my bed and it really helps to keep the bed toasty for a lot of the night. The water is actually still warm in the morning when I pour it out (into the bucket of toilet-flushing water, of course...not to be wasted!). It makes a huge difference! The other thing that makes a huge difference is a shawl. Pretty much every Nepali woman (and some men) that you see these days is wearing a shawl. The traditional shawl is made of yak wool. I have one, and it really helps to keep you warm. I've taken to wearing a scarf around my neck, and then actually wrapping the shawl around my waist when I'm in my apartment. I might look goofy, but at least I'm warmer!
5. Layers, layers, layers! I never owned proper thermal underclothes when I was in Canada, but I bought a whole bunch to come to Nepal. Layers are key, both to keep warm, and to help deal with the fact that when you go outside you might get warmer. Today my language teacher was wearing 3 shirts and 2 jackets/coats. Yup, it's not just us bideshis that get cold! My only dilemma with the thermals has been (up till now) whether to wear them or not, because I get really sweaty in them when I walk to my language class during the day. But then they make a huge difference once I'm there. Today for the first time I decided it was worth it, and it definitely was. It seems to be getting a bit colder every day, and even the sun is less warm every day. I'll be thankful for every extra piece of warm clothing I brought.
Finally, on a totally unrelated note, I want to share my 2 favourite Nepali words that I've learned so far:
1. Things = cheej-beej
2. Colourful = rungee-chungee (make sure you roll the "r," pronounce each "g" as a hard "g," and bob your head from side to side with a happy smile, and you'll get the effect)
